Perrone’s 2010 Bigaro (Moscato, Brachetto) is one of Italy’s finest dessert wines. The 2010 is tight, minerally and wonderfully focused. I especially like the energy here. Citrus, rose petals and spices wrap around the long, expansive finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2013. Stefano Perrone makes a number of delicious wines, but truly excels with his Moscati and other sweet wines. I always try to have a few bottles on hand. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; Tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2009 Bigaro (Moscato, Brachetto) is one of the most intriguing dessert wines being made in Italy today. These two indigenous varieties work beautifully here, with Moscato adding a measure of refinement that is usually missing when Brachetto is vinified on its own. Perfumed red cherries, sweet spices and dried roses linger on the exceptionally elegant, generous close. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. Proprietor Stefano Perrone makes reference-point Moscatos. Readers who want to discover the true heights Moscato is capable of must put Perrone on their short list. Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2008 Bigaro is particularly ripe and full-bodied in this vintage. Although some of the elegance of previous years seems missing, the wine offers notable richness and depth, with sweet roses, pomegranate and spices that linger on the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2010. Stefano Perrone remains a reference-point producer for Moscato.Importer: The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484