The 2020 Chardonnay River Block, from Wente selection vines planted in deeper, alluvial soils along the Russian River, has pretty scents of apricot, quince, honeysuckle and beeswax with wafts of matchstick. The medium-bodied palate has a satiny texture with youthfully tense, flinty fruits, juicy acidity and a long, textural finish. It may unwind with another year or two in bottle.

The 2019 Chardonnay River Block has intense scents of almonds, saline, lemon peel and floral perfume with notes of beeswax and graphite. Medium-bodied, the palate is satiny and energetic, perfectly balancing bright mineral and citrus character with savory, nutty undertones, and it has a long, seamless finish. It deserves another couple of years in bottle or a long decant.

The 2018 Chardonnay River Block comes from a section along the river planted in 1989 to Wente clone vines. The nose opens with a pleasant waft of candle smoke and gunflint over a core of white peaches with accents of roasted almonds and honey. The palate is light to medium-bodied, silky and fresh with gently savory fruits and a long, earthy finish.

The 2017 Chardonnay River Block opens to gunflint and toast scents, along with dried flowers, lemon peel, red apples and quince plus touches of honey and hay. It's medium-bodied, rounded, intense and savory, with tangy acidity and a long, layered finish. This is stunning.

The 2016 Chardonnay River Block delivers gorgeous grapefruit, ripe apple and lime leaves with hints of baking bread, nutmeg and yuzu with a waft of ginger. Medium to full bodied, the palate sings with grapefruit and lime freshness, marked by a racy line, finishing long and minerally.