The 2019 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is similarly impressive, unwinding in the glass with notes of citrus zest, confit lemon, iodine, freshly baked bread, nutmeg and smoke. Full-bodied, layered and multidimensional, it's taut and concentrated, with chalky extract, racy acids and a long, penetrating finish. This, too, is even more than usually structured and will require and reward bottle age.

From bottle, Droin's 2017 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos confirms its status as the domaine's finest wine this year, unwinding in the glass with a complex but reserved bouquet of honeyed apples, fresh peach, confit lemon, almond paste and a stable framing of oak. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with a dense, tight-knit and blocky core, racy acids and a saline finish. This will demand some patience.

The 2016 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos is the most reserved and monolithic of Drouin's 2016s but also potentially the finest, unfurling in the glass with notes of ripe citrus fruit, smoke and clove spice. On the palate, it's full-bodied, rich and chewy, with a blocky, foursquare profile that encompasses considerable depth and substance. It will require time, and it isn't very charming right now, but it shows plenty of promise.

The 2015 Chablis Grand Cru les Clos has an expressive bouquet with scents of wild honey, ginger, flint and smoke. It has the gusto and hubris that you expect from les Clos. The palate is very well balanced with fine delineation, disarmingly harmonious and focused with hints of almond and hazelnut on the saline, oyster shell, lightly reduced finish. This just demonstrates what a les Clos ought to be when it is in the right hands.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest annual tasting, Jean Paul Droin's 2014 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a very composed bouquet, clearly with some wood influence that lifts the waxy, lanolin aromas. However, I would have liked more terroir expression here. The palate has an energetic opening with just the right amount of bitterness. There is plenty of sappiness here that gets the saliva flowing (as Chablis should) with oyster shell and a tang of seaweed on the finish. It actually improves with aeration, the reduction on the nose lifting and revealing more of the vineyard, more "Chablis-ness" if you like.