Medium to full-bodied on first inspection, the 2015 Barolo Riserva Gramolere is quite a big wine ultimately, with thick layering and bold aromas of pressed blackberry and plum. Those dark fruit tones cede to toasted spice, clove, smoky tar and cured tobacco. There is a lot of ripe fruit here and a lot of oak spice, but these two sides of the wine are well matched if that's the style you seek.

Only made in the best vintages, the Giovanni Manzone 2013 Barolo Riserva Gramolere is a dark and sultry expression, with loads of dark plummy fruit backed by a big dose of sweet oaky spice and smoke. The wine offers a big platform to aromas of black fruit, spice, tar and tobacco, rendering a more savory and earthy expression of Nebbiolo. This Riserva release of about 11,000 bottles also sees more time in glass, in addition to its 54 months in tonneaux, and therefore has had more time to soften and integrate. I'd say this wine is ready to drink straight out of the gate with a juicy steak and potato purée.

Dark, muscular and brooding, the 2012 Barolo Riserva Gramolere wears its Riserva status well. It reveals a very dense fiber that is closely interwoven with blackberry, dried cherry, plum, spice and tobacco. The wine presents rich textural fiber that is backed by oak-driven sweetness and ripe fruit from a hot vintage. This wine is aged in tonneaux for 48 months.

The Manzone 2010 Barolo Riserva Gramolere is a dark and enriched expression that puts on a beautiful performance. This is in part due to the attributes of the classic 2010 vintage that is known for its powerful, centered and elegant wines. This expression is already drinking beautifully in its current state. It shows hints of tertiary evolution with campfire ash and dried licorice powder that add complexity and finesse. The wine also benefits from a more elaborate winemaking process (it ages in tonneaux for 48 months) with oak-driven notes of baking spice and toasted almond. These tones are tucked neatly into the thick fiber and consistency of this beautiful Barolo. Only 1,700 bottles were produced.

The winemaking team at the Giovanni Manzone estate tends to go a little heavy on the oak. Their 2009 Barolo Riserva Gramolere is a case in point. In this Riserva, the fruit versus oak integration is not perfect. There is too much emphasis on spice, clove and campfire ash. But this was a hot vintage, so you get plenty of dried blackberry and dark plum as well.