The pretty 2015 Falanghina del Sannio offers slightly broader tastes and more volume compared to other expressions of this grape made closer to the coast. The inland Sannio region is a lush and verdant area with more red soils and thicker clay. This wine shows thick layers of stone fruit and apricot with some natural spice on the close.

The 2011 Falanghina Sannio is a pretty aperitif-styled Campanian white laced with peaches, pears and flowers. This soft, perfumed white is best appreciated over the next year or so. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Mastroberardino is another winery that seems to have found an extra gear or two over the last few years. The Taurasis remain the flagships, but readers should also pay close attention to the entry-level reds and the best whites in this range. All of the wines are deeply varietal, making Mastroberardino a perfect place to start learning about the great wines of Campania. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2010 Falanghina Sannio is a beautiful, expressive wine at this level. Like so many 2010 whites it is cooler and more minerally than is often the case. Sweet floral notes linger on the exquisite finish. This entry-level Falaghina, from vineyards in the Sannio district, is quite different from the estate's Falanghina Morabianca, which is made from vines in Irpinia. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Mastroberardino is one of Italy's most historic properties. My vertical tasting of the estate's Taurasi (published in Issue 190), with vintages back to 1928, was a revelation. A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The 2009 Falanghina Sannio is a delicious white graced with exquisite aromatics that meld into expressive peaches, mint, flowers and apricots. This shows the gorgeous inner perfume and softness for which Falanghina is so well-known. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Mastroberardino is one of the historically significant names in Italian wine. These entry-level selections offer plenty of insight into the unique qualities of Campania’s myriad indigenous red and white grape varieties.A Leonardo Lo Cascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Crisp and citrusy with supporting aromas of melon and peach, this is a very clean and well put together Falanghina. This luminous white would make a wonderful companion to light salad lunches or smoked salmon carpaccio.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 87