The 2009 Syrah High Density is more interesting than the Verna’s. It shows the darker side of Syrah, with an array of black fruit, spices, licorice and new leather. Floral and mineral notes reappear on the finish, adding considerable freshness and lift. Some elements of wildness remain. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Melville is one of the better known properties in Santa Barbara. The estate makes a wide range of wines under the direction of oenologist Greg Brewer, and also sells fruit to a number of other producers. The 2009 Pinot Noirs in particular are standouts. Brewer vinified the Pinots with one-third whole clusters. The 2010 Chardonnays had only recently been bottled and needed quite a bit of air to blow off some of their reductive qualities.Tel. (805) 735-7030; www.melvillewinery.com

Exhibiting fewer meaty/bacon fat notes, the 2008 Syrah High Density is a more feminine, floral effort with notes of camphor, blueberries, and black raspberries, medium to full body, a silky texture, beautiful concentration, and plenty of nuances. Enjoy this stylish yet complex Syrah over the next 5-8 years. This sensational Santa Rita Hills estate owned by the Melville family continues to turn out gorgeous wines that are made and looked after by Greg Brewer of the Brewer-Clifton winery. The prices are absurdly fair for such quality.Tel. (805) 735-7030; Fax (805) 735-5310

The 2007 Syrah High Density is a far more serious and provocative wine. Its inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by a big, sweet kiss of roasted meats, frying lard, smoke, camphor, blueberries, and blackberries. Dense, full-bodied, and rich with sweet tannin, fresh acidity, and good focus, it should drink nicely for 5-8 years. While Melville may be more well-known for their brilliant Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, they also do a spectacular job with Rhone varietals.Tel. (805) 735-7030; Fax (805) 735-5310

Its name a reference to the tightly spaced vineyard plantings, the 2006 Syrah High Density reveals more tannin and structure than the Verna’s along with a deep purple color, and a sweet, but more restrained nose of graphite, blackberries, and cherries. This is a less flattering, more structured and muscular, but loaded effort that should reach full maturity in several years, and last for a decade or more.From one of the Santa Rita Hills’ superb vineyard sites, the Melville wines are made by Greg Brewer.Tel. (805) 735-7030; fax (805) 735-5310

The big, broad 2005 Syrah High Density has more roasted meat notes intermixed with charcoal, graphite, black raspberry, and blackberry. Beautiful purity is evident in this wine as well, and it is fuller-bodied with a long, silky finish. Drinking it in its first 5-7 years of life is highly recommended. Tel. (805) 735-7030