The 2009 Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene is the only Melville Pinot made from 100% destemmed fruit, and naturally it is quite different from the rest of the wines in the lineup. The Indigene impresses for its explosive fruit, full-bodied personality and opulent finish. It is a striking wine in every way. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. Melville is one of the better known properties in Santa Barbara. The estate makes a wide range of wines under the direction of oenologist Greg Brewer, and also sells fruit to a number of other producers. The 2009 Pinot Noirs in particular are standouts. Brewer vinified the Pinots with one-third whole clusters. The 2010 Chardonnays had only recently been bottled and needed quite a bit of air to blow off some of their reductive qualities.Tel. (805) 735-7030; www.melvillewinery.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Clone 115 Indigene comes from the well-known Burgundy clone of Pinot Noir that became the rage for viticulturalists 15 or more years ago. Deep ruby/purple-tinged, with sweet boysenberry and raspberry fruit as well as some floral notes and forest floor, the wine is deep, rich, and has plenty of power (14.5% alcohol). I am not sure that it’s clearly better than its two less expensive siblings, the Verna’s and the Estate. It should drink nicely for 5-8 years. The Melvilles are a serious viticultural family with an impeccable vineyard and top-notch wines, looked over with some consulting help from the dynamic duo of Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton. This is another impressive line-up from their cool-climate Santa Rita Hills vineyard. The barrel-aged whites, which don’t see a lot of new oak, certainly possess beautiful concentration, intensity, and potential. These wines go through full malolactic and range from a low of 14.4% alcohol for the Verna’s to 15.2% for the Donna’s. I wonder if there is a need for three separate cuvees as they are more similar than dissimilar. Greg Brewer oversees the making of Melville’s Pinots, but although he is an advocate of 100% stems, Melville uses about 33% stems in all their Pinot Noirs. They are aged completely in older neutral French barrels. This is a sensational group of Pinot Noirs that rival, and perhaps in one or two cases, eclipse what Melville accomplished in 2007. As challenging as the 2008 vintage could be, top producers who took immaculate care of their vineyards, while having the restraint to wait and wait for them to achieve perfect phenolic maturity, were able to make superb wines in this irregular vintage. P.S. As you can tell from the prices, these wines represent sensational bargains for wines at this quality level.Tel. (805) 235-7030