The origins of the Ruchè grape are mysterious, with some theorizing it was brought from France and others claiming it is indigenous to Piedmont. The Montalbera 2018 Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato La Tradizione is a fun and zesty wine with lots of vivid fruit, cola, chopped mint and crushed white peppercorn. That peppery note is something I recognize in many of the indigenous grapes of Italy. I could see this ample production of 120,000 bottles being a delightful, and well-priced, pairing partner to a hearty plate of pasta cacio e pepe.

The 2015 Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato La Tradizione is dry, perfumed and floral, with an important whiff of red rose potpourri or dried rose hip. The bouquet is crisp and delineated, with bright intensity and fresh acidity to boot. There is some astringency in the mouth, with soaked tea leaf or candied cherry flavors.

Made with the little-known Ruche grape that is believed to be native of the Asti area of Italy’s Piedmont region, this bright and ruby-colored red wine offers floral and simple berry aromas. It shows freshness and structure, making it a good pairing partner to pasta or quiche lorraine. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 87