The medium to full-bodied 2018 Gigondas Terres des Aines offers up herbal, tomato-laced aromas, plus attractive hints of raspberries, but at the moment, it looks a bit too drying and tannic for its own good. If it sheds tannin over the remainder of its élevage in tank, it could emerge as a surprise.

Full-bodied and creamy in texture, the 2017 Gigondas Terres des Aines was singing from vat, showing great Grenache-based fruit, spicy complexity and lovely freshness and feel. Tasted twice, with consistent notes.

The 2016 Gigondas Terres des Aines is 80% Grenache and 20% Mourvèdre that's super ripe but stays lively and fresh. Garrigue notes help with that, adding lift to the brandied black cherries and stone fruit. Full-bodied, creamy and supple, it's huge but graceful, lingering elegantly on the finish. It should drink well for a decade.

The 2015 Gigondas Terres des Aines has a slight earthiness I could do without, but is medium to full-bodied, rounded and nicely textured.