The 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon is firm and spicy, with dried herbs, satsuma plum, blueberries and green tea in profusion. Layers of tannin shape the palate, while the succulent flow of fruit continues on, within it, unabated. This is very smart, very elegant. There are inflections of pencil shavings and graphite through the finish. I don't get the impression that this wine is going to "soften" with age, so much as gain further complexity and attraction. It is almost austere but svelte, too. 14.3% alcohol, sealed under Stelvin.

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon, aged 18 months in 35% new French oak, comes across as only modestly ripe, with cassis flavors undercut by a slash of green bell pepper. It's medium-bodied and streamlined, with a silky feel, but those green notes linger on the finish.