The 2009 Meursault Les Clousots offers lively fresh, zesty fruit on the nose, with fine vigor and tension, actually putting the Les Tillets 2009 in its place. The palate is fresh and lively, revealing concentrated, crisp citrus fruit infused with ginger and a touch of rhubarb on the composed, focused finish. This is a superb showing. Drink now-2018.

The 2007 Meursault Les Clous-ots represents Javillier’s second vintage combining fruit from Les Clous and a recently-acquired parcel in Les Crotots (a site below Poruzots). Ripe peach, fresh lemon, and freshly-milled grains in the nose lead to a luscious, juicy palate in which honeydew melon seems to accompany the aforementioned features. This is almost delicate in its sense of lift, caressing texture, and subtle but insistent citric refreshment. While lacking quite the interplay or poise of the Tillets, it is very impressive indeed – all the way through to a chalk-tinged, persistently generously-fruited finish. I suspect it will be best enjoyed within 4-5 years. Patrick Javillier began picking on September 3rd, but only finished (with his Savigny) mid-month. He chaptalized lightly, keeping all of the wines under 13%. He thinks his 2007 results capture “the spirit and purity of 1984, but with less acidity, and perhaps a bit that of 1979.” But the wines of Javillier were very different and far less exciting even a dozen years ago than they are today, so in that sense these comparisons are moot. (His favorites for drinking now, by the way, are his 1990s.) And I have never tasted a more impeccably balanced or consistently delicious and intriguing collection at this address than these 2007s. For some general notes on Javillier’s approach to vinification, consult my report in issue 180. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

A new wine for Javillier – combining fruit from Les Clous and a recently-acquired parcel in Les Crotots a site below Poruzots – the 2006 Meursault Les Clous-ots displays heady floral perfume and a Pinot Gris-like peachiness, smokiness, nutty richness, and spiciness. With considerable opulence of texture and low-toned depth, yet not lacking for freshness or lift, it finishes with admirable persistence. While there is no track record for this cuvee, I suspect it will be at its best between 2-4 years after bottling. The ever-experimental Patrick Javillier continues to pursue a unique approach, vinifying and elevating separate lots from each cru that in turn emphasize fruit, minerality, mouth feel, and structure; then assembling them late. (For a long time, Javillier distinguished as “Cuvee Speciale,” bottlings done later and without filtration. But in 2006, no such distinction was observed, and all of the wines are untiltered.) In 2003, Javillier adopted the contrarian viewpoint that the wines needed ample battonage and time on the lees to insure a structure that would compensate for low acidity, but in 2006 he felt the need to rack and bottle somewhat earlier than usual to preserve freshness and – in his words – “Burgundian character.” While he touts the virtues of this vintage for early drinking – and this is one address where 2004 and 2005 appear today to have the edge in quality, including potential longevity – samples of several of Javillier’s young 2006s that had taken on air for a day were, perhaps tellingly, more revelatory and satisfying that those freshly uncorked. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93