The 2016 The Contours Riesling leads with cold buttered toast, creamed honey, fennel seeds and brine, while in the mouth, the wine expands to fill every available space. This is rich, complex and so fresh. It's kindly held back in the cellar for our drinking pleasure, so it is definitely ready for immediate consumption; but should you choose to rest this another decade or two, that would also be great.

The fruit for this 2015 The Contours Museum Reserve Riesling was picked from the Contours vineyard in the Eden Valley. The Eden is elevated above the Barossa Valley, at an elevation of over 440 meters. The skeletal, podzolic soils veritably burst forth with rocks—quartz and granite—among the old, towering gums that sway in the wind... there's something incredibly evocative about the Eden Valley. With all of this in mind, at seven years of age today in 2022, this wine is spicy and enveloping but absolutely remains shackled to the rails of acidity and tension that this region is so good at. At no point through the finish does the fruit waver or deviate from the set path, telling us it has plenty of time left to go yet. This wine is routinely impressive, and so too is this release.

At a decade old, this 2012 The Contours Riesling is superb. Just superb. It sings with creamed honey, honeysuckle, crushed shells, brine, green apple skins and layers of quinine, tobacco leaf and ash. Words are wasted on it. Bottle age has brought this into a magical space. It will easily reach its 20th birthday, and with patience, its 30th too.

The 2011 Riesling The Contours is intensely scented of lemon curd, lime leaves, fresh hay and toasted almonds with hints of crushed stones, orange blossoms and coriander seed. The light-bodied, bone-dry palate has a wicked backbone of rasping acidity adding to the energy of the citrus and mineral flavors, finishing with wonderful length.

The 2010 The Contours Museum Reserve Riesling shows lovely, evolving lanolin and petrol notes, with beeswax and toast over a core of lemon curd, lemongrass and lime leaves. There is some honey, as well. This is a dry, light and expressive Riesling with tons of layers of flavor, as well as a long finish.