The 2018 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières was more reserved, unwinding in the glass with a shy bouquet of pear, white flowers, clear honey and green apple. Medium to full-bodied, supple and enveloping, the outlines are promising, but the wine isn't yet fully formed.

The 2017 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières is showing brilliantly, unfurling in the glass with aromas of minty Anjou pear, white flowers, pastry cream and blanched almonds. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and enveloping, with a lively spine of acidity, excellent tension and a long, saline finish. While it's hard to pick a favorite, this gets my nod as the finest of Jobard's 2017s.

The 2014 Meursault 1er Cru Genevrières, which comes from a parcel planted in 1945, 1970 and 1995 -- some located next to the cabotte in Les Genevrières-Dessous -- has a very expressive and outgoing bouquet; the intense lime flower and limestone scents are focused, indeed similar to Michel Bouzereau's own Genevrières that I had tasted earlier the same day. The palate is very well balanced and vibrant with a keen line of acidity. This is harmonious, beautifully poised and it gently fans out on the finish. This is another strong Genevrières for the 2014 vintage. Chapeau!

The 2013 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrières was reticent on the nose after the more open Narvaux and Chevalier 2013s. However, with encouragement it begins to open and offer attractive walnut and smoky notes, very typical of this vineyard. The palate is nicely balanced with a crisp line of acidity and plenty of citrus fruit laced with hazelnut and smoke toward the linear, quite saline finish. This is a conservative Genevrieres that should age and offer more with bottle age.

The 2012 Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres is blessed with another compelling bouquet with a surfeit of mineralite spilling over from the glass. The palate is very harmonious with citrus lemon, orange rind, dovetailing into a tense, bitter lemon finish that is vigorous and persistent. This is a great Genevrieres that should age gracefully over 10 to 15 years. Naturally, I spent ten minutes parked outside Domaine Francois Jobard listening to Warpaint’s aptly entitled debut album “The Fool,” before it dawned upon me that I should have been at his brother Charles’s house ten minutes ago. Cue quick dash across Meursault village. Charles Jobard was waiting for outside the winery, probably aware that I would have gone to the wrong address. Charles actually retired a few years ago, but since his son Remi was not on hand, he temporarily came out of retirement to guide me through what were some really quite sublime expressions of Meursault without necessarily resorting to premier crus. The domaine was created in the 1960s when Pierre Jobard divided his holdings between his two sons, Francois and Charles. In 1991 Charles was joined by his son, who then took charge five years later. The domaine has avoided use of herbicides and chemicals since 1994 and adopted the policy of tightly cordon pruning their vines in order to obviate excessive green pruning later in the season. The wines had been raised in new and used oak (20% new plus one to four-year old) and also 1,200-litre foudres before spending six months in stainless steel vats for bottling in February 2014. I tasted through their entire range of wines, though readers should note that there henceforth there is no Meursault Charmes since the vines were pulled up in 2012. I was really taken by these wines – rather a revelation to this writer since I have only come across them sporadically courtesy of their UK importer. To anoint them with the highest praise, I was reminded of the first time I encountered Jean-Marc Roulot’s exceptional wines, full of aromatic nuance and heavenly poise on the palate. If like me, you are still waiting to become au fait with Remi Jobard, then my advice is the sooner the better. Importer: Peter Weygandt and also Lea & Sandeman (UK)