The 2004 Barolo is a floral mid-weight Barolo with terrific delineation and clarity in its dark fruit, menthol and spices. The tannins remain a touch firm, but the wine’s balance is impeccable, particularly at this level. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Proprietor Luciano Pira is typically among the last producers to bottle his Barolos, so these 2004s are the current releases. Incidentally, the Schiavenza family also runs an informal trattoria in the center of town that features authentic regional cooking at very fair prices.Importers: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; caroline debbané selections T. 323.472.5242 | F. 323.472.5157

The 2000 Barolo is endowed with an interesting nose of plums, anchovies, and olive paste, a ripe and silky palate, and classy soft tannins on the close. Drink: 2005-2015. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800

The ripe plum fruit of the 1999 Barolo is given greater complexity with notes of tar and licorice, and the palate, long, velvety, and sweet, has plenty of extract and weight. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2018. No known American importer.