The brilliant 2007 Gigondas exhibits loads of crushed rock, blueberry, and boysenberry characteristics. A cool-climate style has given the wine a certain restraint, but the levels of concentration, depth, and richness are impressive. Drink this beauty over the next decade. The negociant line of wines from Domaine du Pegau is sold under the label Selection Laurence Feraud, and they are all noteworthy efforts as one might expect given all the contacts Laurence and her father, Paul, have in the southern Rhone Valley.Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J & R Selections, Lansing, MI; tel. (517) 393-4441

The 2006 Gigondas reveals a cool climate, minty character along with berry fruit and crushed rock notes in its medium-bodied personality. The inimitable Feraud family, true guardians of the most traditional style of Provence and several Rhone appellations, is increasingly spearheaded by daughter Laurence, but her charismatic father, Paul, is always on the scene, with her mother, running the office. While Pegau’s expanding production should be carefully watched, the talent is certainly there. Forgetting the estate wines, there are three levels of quality and price, including a new Tetra Pak in a liter package that is quite good. There are also the Selection Laurence Feraud, a negociant line of wines, and a second negociant line-up sold under the moniker Feraud-Brunel, which Laurence oversees along with Andre Brunel. 2007 is an undeniably great vintage for the Feraud wines.Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J and R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (734) 662-3753

The 2005 Gigondas is better than 90% of that village’s estate wines. Deep ruby/purple-tinged with cool climate red and black currant fruit characteristics intermixed with notions of blueberries and spring flowers, this ripe, medium-bodied effort possesses good acidity as well as a long finish. It should drink beautifully for 10-12 years. P.S. A wine that is not to be missed is Laurence’s partner’s Costieres di Nimes. Mark Fincham produces a beautiful blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache called Red Note. The 2006 may be the finest yet made. It is an exuberant, flamboyant, richly fruity wine with loads of Provencal character. 2006 looks to be a very strong vintage for this region, even superior to 2005. The 2005 Red Note is more restrained, tannic, and closed, but quite good. One further note, I do not know what Laurence Feraud’s intention is, but she insisted that I taste two wines from Crete that she may or may not represent in France. One was the 2006 Nostos, a 100% Syrah, and the other was a Syrah/Grenache blend, the 2005 Nostos Cuvee Alexandra. Both were outrageously good wines that merit plenty of attention from adventurous wine consumers. I would buy them in a nanosecond if they were available in America!Importers: Dan Kravitz, Hand Picked Selections, Warrenton, VA; tel. (540) 347-9400; Martine’s Wine, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400; and J and R Selections, Mt. Pleasant, MI; tel. (734) 662-3753The effervescent/dynamic Laurence Feraud continues to expand her family’s business, branching out into two negociant lines, one called Selection Laurence Feraud and the other Feraud-Brunel. The latter wines are made in conjunction with her friend (and proprietor of Les Cailloux), Andre Brunel. This is generally a very strong line-up of wines, with, ironically, the Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees perhaps weaker than the Cotes du Rhones, which is somewhat unusual. I think it is because there is much better fruit available in the Cotes du Rhone-Villages than in Chateauneuf du Pape, where the estates are holding back more and more of their best material for their own bottlings.