Another medium-bodied, Burgundian-style effort is the 2013 Chardonnay Estate Arroyo Grande Valley. Seeing nine months in 15% new French oak, it has classic apple blossom, white peach and citrus aromas and flavors, medium-bodied richness and a vibrant, clean and classy style. Coming from a blend of Rincon, Rosemary and Monte Sereno Vineyards, it's a no-brainer purchase and will drink nicely for 4-5 years.

Another classy Chardonnay, Talley’s 2012 Chardonnay Estate Arroyo Grande Valley (10 months in 15% new French oak) gives up notions of lychee, citrus blossom, spice and brioche, with additional minerality developing with time in the glass. Medium-bodied, pure, chiseled and focused, drink it over the coming 2-4 years.

The 2009 Chardonnay Estate comes across as quite delicate and feminine in this vintage. It shows good length if not quite the complexity of the best years and looks to be a relatively early drinker. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Brian Talley doesn’t miss a beat. This is an impressive set of wines from top to bottom. In general, I have a slight preference for the 2008 Chardonnays over the 2009s, as I find the earlier vintage shows more delineation and finesse. Readers who prefer a bold, overt style of Chardonnay may find more immediate pleasure in the 2009s. The Chardonnays were fermented with indigenous yeasts and aged on their lees in 30% new oak. The 2008 Pinots are terrific, but they need quite a bit of air to show their best. The Pinots were fermented in open top fermenters, using native yeasts, and aged in barrel for 18-19 months. Talley used 30-35% new oak for the Pinots. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2009 Pinots, which had just been bottled.Tel. (805) 489-0446; www.talleyvineyards.com