From the IGT Mitterberg appellation, the 2017 Lagrein Schwarhof Gran Lareyn (closed with a glass cork) is a heady and robust red wine that pours forth with inky dark concentration. The wine sees 21 days of skin contact during fermentation with pump-overs and punch-downs. The bouquet shows tangy and savory notes of black fruit, Spanish cedar and exotic spice. The wine is raw, meaty and very robust, with thick concentration and a soft, velvety finish. This is a near-term wine to pair with grilled lamb or pork. Some 6,000 bottles were made.

An IGT wine, the 2011 Gran Lareyn Lagrein is a meaty, savory expression with rustic aromas of old leather, smoked bacon and dusty earth. The fruit nuances here are dark and dried with preserved blackberry, crème de cassis and cherry liqueur. In the mouth, Gran Lareyn shows thick lines and a chewy, plush quality. Oak-aged nuances of spice and smoke also play supporting roles.

The 2007 Lagrein Gran Lareyn is a powerful, distinctive red laced with minerals, graphite, jammy dark fruit, herbs and spices. This super-concentrated, textured Lagrein offers exceptional balance and a long, impeccable finish. It also seems to have enough freshness to develop nicely in bottle. That said, it is pretty impressive, even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2019. This Alto Adige estate is part of the Loacker family’s holdings that also includes properties in Maremma and Montalcino. I only tasted two wines, but they were both delicious. Importer: Wine Appellations Ltd, Mill Valley, CA; tel. (415) 381-5782