An initial blast of musky earth wears off to reveal blueberry, blackberry and ripe red fruit. The wine performs well in the mouth thanks to firm tannins and good acidity.——M.L.(8/1/2007)—— 85

At 85% Negroamaro and 15% Malvasia Nera, this jammy, berry-packed Southern Italian is the type of red wine most folks can sink their teeth into. Prepare for graham-cracker aromas, bold fruit and deep espresso shadings. It attacks with juicy strawberry and raspberry, and then turns spry as the acids take over. Fades with chocolate and a hint of butter. The consulting winemaker is Riccardo Cotarella, a master of extraction and balance regardless of region and price.——M.S.(11/15/2004)—— 88