There is no need to taste the 2004 Barolo Romirasco, the nose alone is enough to understand that this is magnificent wine. Aromas of tar, roses, menthol, scorched earth and smoke lead to a core of dark red fruit than unfolds onto the palate with uncommon grace and elegance. As it sits in the glass the wine gradually puts on weight, filling out its considerably structured frame with notable class. The last Romirasco was made in 1993. This bottling has typically only been made in vintages where quality is not sufficient for the family to make their top of the line Riserva Granbussia, as was the case in 2004, when the Cicala vineyard was damaged by hail. Conterno told me is so happy with this wine he will probably bottle a small quantity going forward to see how it develops. It will be fascinating to taste future Romirascos next to the Granbussias of the same vintage to evaluate how a single-vineyard wine from what many consider to be one of Bussia’s greatest vineyards compares to the Granbussia blend. Conterno expects to price the Romirasco at the same level or slightly more than the Colonnello. If that turns out to be the case, this will be a superb relative value as well. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724

Plum, ripe berries and hints of chocolate. Full-bodied, with velvety tannins and lots of ripe fruit, with spices and hints of raisin. The Conternos decided to make this single-vineyard wine because the crop of the Cicala vineyard was destroyed by hail in 2004. So you won't see Cicala or Granbussia Riserva in 2004. Just this and Colonnello. Best after 2011. 800 cases made. -JS