The 2005 Barolo Romirasco is a regal, aristocratic wine that embodies everything a great Barolo should be. The wine reveals awesome density and richness in layers of deeply spiced, mentholated dark fruit, flowers and minerals that continue to emerge from the glass in a never-ending display of sheer elegance and class. This is one of the few truly complete, multi-dimensional wines of the vintage. Today the wine comes across as exceedingly young, and some bottle age is essential in order to enjoy the wine at its very finest. This is a gem from Aldo Conterno. Based on the well-deserved success of the 2004 the estate has decided to bottle a small amount of the Romirasco in each vintage, something Barolo lovers should be thrilled about. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2030. Aldo Conterno is back. After a period of inconsistent wines (by this house’s standards) in the mid- to late-1990s, Conterno once again takes its place among the region’s top producers. Today the estate is run by Aldo Conterno’s three sons Giacomo, Franco and Stefano Conterno who look after vineyards, marketing, and winemaking respectively. Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future. The 2005s are a worthy follow-up to the hugely successful 2004s, leaving no doubt that 2004 and 2005 are the finest back to back vintages here since the historic 1989 and 1990. The 2005 Barolos represent a new point of arrival after the estate embarked on a major rethinking of its work in the vineyards in the late 1990s, which involved among other things shorter winter pruning (designed to lower yields naturally) and a greater amount of attention to canopy management. In 2005 the estate harvested only a portion of each of its vineyards before the rains, while some of the fruit was brought in after the rains. In the end, only the fruit that was harvested before the inclement weather set in was bottled, so overall production in 2005 is roughly 40% of normal. On the plus side, there will be a small amount of Granbussia. These gorgeous, uplifting 2005 Barolos firmed up quite a bit in the glass, suggesting they are headed for a slumber that hopefully won’t last too long, as the wines are truly special. Stylistically the wines are made in the medium-bodied style that is characteristic of the 2005 Barolos, but offer terrific harmony and drinkability. Importer: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (707) 603-1461

Blackberry and blueberry aromas, with light vanilla and floral character, lead to a full-bodied palate, with very sweet fruit and chewy tannins. Turns to a real mouthful. A beautiful single-vineyard wine. Best after 2011. 300 cases made. -JS