Poderi Aldo Conterno's Bussia Romirasco sees a few extra months of oak aging. The 2012 Barolo Bussia Romirasco greatly benefits from that extra wood. Because the fruit in 2012 is less expressive overall, the Romirasco signature touch bodes well for its texture, heft and its aromatic delivery. This Barolo offers pretty richness and density with thick lines and deep concentration. The oak needs more years to integrate, but I feel confident that it will reach harmony, with time, given the wine's generous structure and fruity richness.

This full-bodied red opens with aromas of underbrush, raspberry compote and dark baking spice. The brooding palate offers mature black cherry, white pepper, cinnamon, grilled herb and licorice alongside a backbone of assertive tannins. Drink 2020–2028.