The 2008 Barolo Romirasco is striking. It possesses a cool, mineral-drenched personality similar to the Cicala, but with an extra dimension of textural finesse. Sweet red berries, flowers, mint and crushed rocks are woven together in this exquisite, gorgeous Barolo. Powerful and authoritative, the Romirasco impresses for its depth and unmistakable pedigree. Today the 2008 is an infant, but great things are in store for those who can wait. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028. My tasting at Aldo Conterno was one of the highlights of my recent trip to Piemonte. The 2008s are super-classic wines that will thrill Barolo lovers. The harvest took place at the end of October, quite late by modern-day standards. The Conterno brothers continue to lengthen macerations. In 2008 the Granbussia saw 40-45 days of skin contact, the longest ever. Speaking of Granbussia, Conterno has cut production on their flagship wine by a whopping two-thirds in order to bottle only the best juice under their top label. This also frees up juice for the Romirasco bottling, which is now a permanent part of the lineup, rather than a wine that is only made when there is no Granbussia, which was the case until just a few years ago. The unexpected success of the Romirasco bottling is one of the many positive things that have taken place at Aldo Conterno recently. The Conterno family embodies so many of the human values that make Piemonte such a special place. It’s great to see them back at the top of their game. Importer: Massanois Imports, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 470-6769

Refined tannins provide a tapestry for the cherry, tar and spice flavors in this suave and silky red, which turns leaner and more sinewy by the finish, picking up a mineral component. The flavors linger. Best from 2017 through 2034. 150 cases imported. –BS