The barrel element in Pinson’s 2007 Chablis La Foret – rendered from 60-year-old vines – serves to accentuate what seem to be inherent textural creaminess, deep nuttiness, and almost honeyed richness, characteristics that set it apart from most of his 2007 collection. Citrus oil, bitter notes of fruit pits, and alkalinity as well as a refreshing element of ripe acidity offer counterpoint to the wine’s richer elements, and carry into a satisfyingly long, vanilla-tinged finish. While this is flattering now, it ought to be worth following for another 4-5 years. Laurent Pinson operates out of a sophisticated cuverie built in 2003, and departs from the style of an earlier generation here by employing considerable amounts of young wood on his crus – ostensibly to protect fruit and guard against volatility to which wine in older barrels is prey. But sometimes – at least, with his rather tensile 2007s – I found the resultant taste of wood less than synergistic.Imported by Sussex Wine Merchants, Moorestown, NJ; tel. (856) 608-9644 and also a Charles Neal Selection, Richmond, CA; tel (415) 225-5144 (with various importers)