The superb 2000 Esprit de Beaucastel (this is the same wine as the 2000 Grand Cuvee reviewed in issue #139 last year) is a blend of 35% Mourvedre, 26% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 14% Counoise. It reveals complex characteristics of cloves, spice box, cinnamon, and black fruits in a full-bodied, Chateauneuf du Pape-like style. Dense and chewy, with tremendous intensity as well as richness, like the 2002, it should age well for 10-12 years, possibly longer. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

A musky, animal-scented wine, which may put some sniffers off. If you can get past that, it is superb. Brilliantly fruity, with a melange of berry and spice flavors, rich tannins, and the good acidity that comes from West Side Paso grapes.——S.H.(12/1/2003)—— 91