From a warm vintage, the 2003 Esprit de Beaucastel has fantastic, complex aromas and flavors, beautiful richness and a deep, layered mid-palate. Proprietor Jason Haas compares this to the 2012 and, certainly, its voluptuous texture and richness are similar. It’s drinking brilliantly and I would consume bottles over the coming handful of years, although it will last longer. Drink now-2018. Certainly a reference point for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek continues to produce wines in a restrained, age-worthy and savory style that sets them apart. Both 2010 and 2011 are strong here, with the 2010s showing additional depth and concentration and the 2011s showing pretty, elegant profiles. I suspect the 2011s will be on faster evolutionary tracks, but given their balance, they could surprise in the cellar. In addition to their current releases, I was able to do short verticals of their Esprit de Beaucastel (which is now called Esprit de Tablas) and Panoplie. To say I came away impressed would be an understatement. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com