Showing fantastically is the big, rich 2002 Esprit de Beaucastel, which offers up a youthful array of ripe black fruits, licorice, singed herbs and background meatiness to go with full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. I like where it’s at now, but there is still notable structure here and it should evolve gracefully going forward. Drink now-2017. Certainly a reference point for Paso Robles, Tablas Creek continues to produce wines in a restrained, age-worthy and savory style that sets them apart. Both 2010 and 2011 are strong here, with the 2010s showing additional depth and concentration and the 2011s showing pretty, elegant profiles. I suspect the 2011s will be on faster evolutionary tracks, but given their balance, they could surprise in the cellar. In addition to their current releases, I was able to do short verticals of their Esprit de Beaucastel (which is now called Esprit de Tablas) and Panoplie. To say I came away impressed would be an understatement. Tel. (805) 237-1231; www.tablascreek.com

The wood foudre-aged 2002 Esprit de Beaucastel red is a beauty. A 2,000 case blend of 57% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 10% Grenache, and 6% Counoise, it is a dense, elegant offering revealing notes of hickory barbecue intermixed with tree bark, blackberries, new saddle leather, and kirsch. A wine of generosity and intensity, yet surprising elegance and definition for such a full-bodied effort, it should drink well for a decade or more. Tel. 805-237-1231; Fax 805-237-1314

This Mourvedre-dominated wine doesn’t have the super-hung meat, gamy aroma that plagued previous vintages. Instead, it offers complex aromas of ripe stone fruits and berries, with a suggestion of leather, herbs and smoky oak. It’s soft and creamy, but the tannins kick in on the finish. Drinkable now, and could improve dramatically through the decade.——S.H.(2/1/2005)—— 89