The 2004 Barolo Cappella di Santo Stefano is drop-dead gorgeous. The wine reveals notable clarity in its translucent, violet-hued color. Vibrant dark cherries, tar, smoke, sweet herbs and toasted oak sweep across the palate in a stunning expression of Nebbiolo and the high-altitude Perno vineyard in Monforte. This wine is all about precision, delineation and striking balance. The oak is beautifully integrated and the tannins convey an impression of vitality and poise. This is an emotional, breathtaking Barolo of the highest level. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Proprietor Rodolfo Migliorini has endured a series of personal tragedies that no one should ever have to experience. The separate losses of his mother, father and brother in just over a year is truly saddening. Hopefully Migliorini might find some small comfort in knowing that this is the finest set of wines his estate has ever produced. The 2004 Barolos are particularly impressive from top to bottom. The wines possesses more transparency than I have ever seen here. The estate still favors 100% new French oak but prior to bottling most of the wines spent 6-12 months in 2-3 year old larger French-oak casks, which has given the wines an extra dimension of transparency. The Santo Stefano, Vigna d’ la Roul, Riserva 10 Anni and Pianpolvere Soprano Barolos all spent or will spend some time in cask, while the Big ‘d Big is now the only Barolo to be aged exclusively in barrique.Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

Dense, oaky, plum and clove nose. Fleshy, rich, spicy, powerful, not expressive now, but fine potential.