Readers will have a difficult time finding a better Pinot Gris than Etude’s 2009 Pinot Gris from Carneros. Delicate apple skin and lemon blossom notes are followed by a medium-bodied, crisp, exuberantly fruity, fresh Pinot Gris that is a total delight to consume. Enjoy it over the next year. Tony Soter has sold Etude to the Beringer Group and is now ensconced in Oregon’s Willamette Valley where he is turning out a bevy of beautiful wines. (His rose sparkling wine from there is exquisite.) He still consults for these projects. Etude’s Pinot Noirs tend to spend 12-14 months in French oak according to the vintage and the quality of the fruit. Etude’s three 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons showcase the generic Napa appellations and single AVAs such as Rutherford and Oakville.Tel. (707) 257-5300; Fax (707) 257-6022

A beautiful Pinot Gris that defines the drier, more elegant style in California. This 2009 is entirely consistent with past vintages from Etude, which have been superior. Shows Meyer lemon, lime, vanilla and peppery spice flavors, with a long, distinguished finish. Etude hasn’t raised the price in many years. Production was 3,319 cases.——S.H.(11/1/2010)—— 90