The 2007 Brunello di Montalcino is a gorgeous, fleshy wine endowed with considerable depth and richness. Ripe red cherries, flowers, mint, spices and licorice are woven together nicely in this sumptuous Brunello. Crushed flowers and a hint of tobacco linger on the finish. The 2007 is already quite showy today and is likely to offer its best drinking relatively early. This is a highly attractive Brunello from Pinino. The 2007 spent 30 months in Slavonian oak casks. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. At press time the producer was changing importer.

This wine goes from delivering savory spice, cured meat and smoked bacon to being lean and not too intense or persistent on the close. The alcohol and dry tannins want more plush fruit for support. ——M.L.(5/1/2012)—— 89