The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is tight and reserved at first with immediate signs of oak spice and toast (it ages 30 months in Slavonian oak). But once it revs up in the glass, it makes a compelling argument for the vintage. The fruit is on the ripe side, but only slightly so. In fact, it delivers a large spectrum of berry flavors backed by lithe endnotes of cola and licorice. I especially enjoyed the tight, compact nature of the mouthfeel that gets right to the point and lingers long enough to keep your interest. Drink: 2015-2022. Located in the northern part of the denomination, Pinino is a partnership between two families, one Austrian (Hannes and Andrea Gamon) and one Spanish (Silvia and Max Hernandez). Together they make wine with the very talented consulting winemaker Paolo Vaggagini. Importer: Total Beverage Solution, www.totalbeveragesolution.com