The 2005 Ruje (80% Merlot, 20% Terrano) is intruiging. Despite the predominance of Merlot in the blend, the personality of Terrano can’t be denied and at times dominates the wine’s personality. Black cherries, juniper berries and sweet herbs take shape in the glass as the wine opens up. Early hints of tertiary complexity have begun to develop in bottle, adding further character and nuance. There is more than enough acidity to make me think the 2005 will age well. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. GPS isn’t much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso. Importer: A.I. Selections, Astoria, NY; tel. (718) 777-2243