Big, ripe, in-your-face Chard here, as gooey as a fruity custard. Almost a dessert wine, it stays just this side of dry, offering huge flavors of lemon drop mousse, pineapple jam, guava, papaya, golden mango and spicy oak. This is a dramatic, show-me-off Chardonnay. ——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 93