The 2009 Chardonnay emerges from the glass with apricots, flowers and sweet honey. It shows gorgeous roundness all the way through to the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Melville is one of the better known properties in Santa Barbara. The estate makes a wide range of wines under the direction of oenologist Greg Brewer, and also sells fruit to a number of other producers. The 2009 Pinot Noirs in particular are standouts. Brewer vinified the Pinots with one-third whole clusters. The 2010 Chardonnays had only recently been bottled and needed quite a bit of air to blow off some of their reductive qualities.Tel. (805) 735-7030; www.melvillewinery.com

This rich, creamy Chardonnay has fine acidity, while a touch of neutral oak adds a background of buttered toast. But the fruit stars, brimming with papayas, mangos, Meyer lemons, limes and pineapples. The finish is filled with honey, and yet is brisk and dry.——S.H.(2/1/2011)—— 92