The 1998 Nuits Saint Georges Les Chaignots is now fully mature. The nose has good vigor with slightly blurred crushed strawberry, red currant and undergrowth scents - rustic but charming. And those adjectives are applicable to the palate that is a soft pillow of smudged red fruit and a satisfying finish that is never going to win "finish of the year," but slips down the throat with ease. Drink this over the next three or four years.