In terms of concentration and complexity, the 2017 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru cannot quite match the Batard this year, but it is a lovely wine, wafting from the glass with aromas of lemon oil, hazelnut cream, white flowers and crushed chalk. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny textured and pure, with a deep, layered core and a bright line of animating acidity, concluding with a long and nicely defined finish.