The 1988 Chambertin Grand Cru from Rousseau offers up a complex and pristine bouquet of red and black berries, grilled meat, wood smoke and cedary wood. On the palate, the wine is medium-full, with a firm but fine chassis of tannin and taut but integrated signature 1988 acidity—structural elements framing a Chambertin of great depth and intensity. This is not as ample or authoritative as the very greatest vintages, but in terms of balance, complexity and concentration, it doesn't miss a beat.