The dark colored plum and spice-scented 1998 Volnay Fremiets is medium to full-bodied and silky-textured. This plump, blackberry and black cherry-filled wine has excellent to outstanding depth, supple tannins, and a complex, flavorful personality. Projected maturity: now-2007. As Henri Boillot put it, "I didn't want my wines to dry out, so I bottled them very early (in December, 1999). I knew the tannins I would be facing when I tasted the grapes at harvest. Also, the sanitary condition were worrisome, they reminded me of 1983. I therefore had the grapes sorted twice, once by the harvesters themselves, and a second time on a sorting table I took to the vineyards. Putting rot-covered berries in a basket or box with healthy ones ruins everything, sorting on a table at the winery is useless in those cases. I also destemmed all the clusters." Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; (202) 832-9083.