There is, as usual with Pinots from Garys’, a lusty, almost overwhelming quality to the wine. It’s a full frontal assault of flavor, with cascades of cherries, raspberries, cola, licorice, sweet leather and smoky char that go on and on. It’s an achievement, but what the wine has in directness, it’s missing in subtlety. Drink this big, bold California Pinot Noir now, or hold through 2010.——S.H.(6/1/2008)—— 88