The options for fine, really dry California Gewurz are surprisingly limited, which is too bad, because a good one, like Halleck’s ’06, is hard to beat. Racy and crisp in acidity, it’s bright in flavor, offering waves of peaches, apples, pears, honeysuckle flowers, figs, vanilla and the complex Asian spices from which the variety takes its name.——S.H.(4/1/2008)—— 90