The 1995 Barolo Bricco Rocche is concentrated and massive. It offers a classic nose of melted tar, Asian spice, incense, and cedar, as well as gobs of black fruits, a whiff of high quality tobacco, full body, and a layered, moderately tannic finish. Anticipated maturity: 2001-2015. Importer: Veuve Clicquot, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Only in Piedmont. This sensational, brick-colored Barolo is exotic from rose petal, tar, smoke and red fruit. Round, velvety and refined, with a full body, sweet tannins, a toasted character and a balanced finish that shout grande vino. Drink now through 2010. 1,170 cases made.??–PM??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Very earthy and tightly wound, before unfolding into a stately charmer. There’s a hundred superlatives you could throw at this beauty, but it’s the leathery, smoky, textured palate and the spicy black-cherry core that win you over. Hardly shy, the tannins are still drying, but it’s approachable, especially if decanted. Great now and better in five years.——W.E.(3/1/2000)—— 96