The flagship wine from Castiglione Falletto, the 2009 Barolo Bricco Rocche, has the distant inklings of greatness, but doesn’t quite pull it off. You get seductive whiffs of white truffle, anisette, rose, tar and polished river stone, but they fade fast. The mid-weight style is appealing and beautifully polished, but the wine comes up short in the mouth. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. Ceretto is a landmark estate and a world ambassador that has done much to teach Barolo appreciation around the world. Not only do they jealously safeguard their well-earned reputation for top-notch wines, but the various generations that have managed this historic winery understood sooner than most that the Langhe must also be developed to attract trouists. The various estates they own are adorned with massive projects of modern art and innovative buildings that make for irresistible touring destinations. As I write this report, I am looking out my window at the Ceretto glass “cube” that sits so regally on the crest of the Bricco Rocche cru above Castiglione Falletto. I have been taunted, nostalgically, each evening by the distant music and laughter emanating from that fascinating architectonic beacon of light and aspiration. Back to the wines: Ceretto is a brand of consistent high scores and accolades. But the 2009 vintage represents something of a lull for this venerated producer. I did not encounter the same clarity of voice or conviction of message that past vintages have delivered. My hope is that this is indeed a temporary lull. Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

Licorice, vanilla and sandalwood notes prevail in this smooth, structured red, with sweet cherry hints hanging in the background. A touch hot in the balance. Best from 2016 through 2028. 275 cases made, 75 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add