The estate’s 2004 Barolo Bricco Rocche reveals an expansive, generous personality. Macerated cherries, spices, vanilla, tar and smoke develop as this pretty, sumptuous wine opens in the glass. Silky tannins and a resonating note of sweetness from the oak carry through to the long finish. The Bricco Rocche still sees 100% new oak but Ceretto is contemplating a shorter aging regime. The 2005, which had just been taken out of oak at the time of my visit, was fresher than the 2004 and seemed to benefit from less time in barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Importer: Moet Hennessy USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8200

This is very raisiny, almost meaty, with an ultrarich nose. Full-bodied, showing sultana and dried flowers on the palate, with chewy tannins. Very long and powerful on the finish. Almost Port-like. Hints of vanilla and sultana. A top Bricco Rocche. Best after 2012. 600 cases made, 150 cases imported.??–JS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add

Exotic, leathery cherries. Oak balanced by the rich red fruit. Rounded despite dense, firm tannins. Chewy but fresh length.

This excellent Barolo from Ceretto’s Bricco Rocche estate represents a perfect marriage between grape and winemaking. The integrity of the fruit is there—plush, round, intense—and is supported by oak-driven notes of vanilla, cinnamon, cigar box and ground ginger. In the mouth, it tastes smooth and supple and offers long-lasting intensity. Drink after 2020.——M.L.(4/1/2009)—— 95