I have loved the 2003 Granato on the multiple occasions I have tasted it. Made in an opulent, super-ripe style it offers superb richness in its fruit, along with licorice and mineral notes that develop in the glass. While it may not have quite the nuanced depth of the 2004, it offers refined tannins, notable balance and is absolutely irresistible today. I would drink the 2003 now and cellar the 2004 for at least another year or two. The Granato spent 18 months in French oak. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2013. The highway that leads from Verona to Bolzano, with its dramatic views of the Dolomites, is one of Italy’s most picturesque roads. Just outside of Trento, Elisabetta Foradori makes reference-point wines from the indigenous Teroldego Rotaliano. Granato, her top bottling, is a selection of the estate’s top fruit. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404