Foradori’s 2004 Granato is a wine of extraordinary personality. Constantly changing in the glass, it offers a kaleidoscope of smoke, tar, graphite, earthiness, roasted coffee beans and sweet dark fruit sensations. It is gorgeously ample and long on the palate, with superb depth as well as freshness. This is an awesome effort from Elisabetta Foradori. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2014. The highway that leads from Verona to Bolzano, with its dramatic views of the Dolomites, is one of Italy’s most picturesque roads. Just outside of Trento, Elisabetta Foradori makes reference-point wines from the indigenous Teroldego Rotaliano. Granato, her top bottling, is a selection of the estate’s top fruit. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404