Power and intensity in a glass. Bold and full of bread dough and apple, with a marmalade note, married to a big, firm structure, it still seems youthful. A brilliant Champagne that should develop beautifully. Best from 2001 through 2010. 6,250 cases made. -BS

Disgorged 27 oct 99. Very deep gold. Very full and ripe – very 1990 – only just champagne rather than full-bodied white wine, this one. But then a top tracery of the sort of green refreshment that is so evident in the 1993. Quite rich and almost fat. You can see the Winston Churchill in this one all right. Burly. Should not be attempted without food. Not sure it will last all that long. Very, very long.