A top offering, the 2005 Chardonnay is a 23,500-case wine that enjoyed 95% malolactic fermentation as well as eight months in French oak (only 32% new). Smoke, lemon oil, white currant, white peach, hazelnut, and orange rind aromas jump from the glass of this 2005. It displays terrific fruit and purity, but little evidence of wood. Tel. (800) 590-6464; fax (707) 571-0156

This is a wine that does best in cool vintages, which ’05 was. A blend of Carneros and Bennett Valley, the wine shows Burgundian character, with apple butter, pineapple custard and lemon zest flavors undergirded by a rich, stony minerality, and a long, rewarding, spicy finish. Very nice now, and should develop for five years. ——S.H.(7/1/2007)—— 90