Tremblay's 2006 Morey-St.-Denis Les Tres Girard (source from Les Murgers and lower adjacent sites) offers a plum cake-like amalgam of purple pit fruits, dried berries, and brown spices. Modest in color and with a fine sense of lift on the palate, it nevertheless boasts glycerin-richness, excellent concentration, and underlying sense of dense extract. Saline, licorice, tobacco, and peat notes compliment the sweetly-fruited, spicy, and still subtly-refreshing cling of the finish. This is 2006 in its gentle, soothing mode (and as such turned out to be deceptive in the context of this year's Tremblay collection). I would plan to relish it over the next 3-4 years, though I would not be shocked to witness if holding up well for far longer. "Given the amount and character of tannin in 2006," reports Cecile Tremblay, "a lot of changes had to be made" in handling to guarantee extraction of pure fruit and the encouragement of depth and textural polish, notably the gentleness of both pressing and maceration. (I had to offer Tremblay – and now do my readers – an apology for stating in my detailed report in issue 171 that she and Pascal Roblet were married. That was never the case – although I am not the only person to have made this mistake – and in any event the two have now gone their separate wine ways. Tremblay crushed her most recent vintage at cellars in her home town of Vosne-Romanee.) Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800