I need to up my score for Cecile’s 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Tres Girard. The wine is still not bottled, but is beginning to develop wondrous purity on the nose that is pure and refined. The palate is suitably elegant and poised, still a little earthy on the finish, but very long. Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800; www.weygandtmetzler.com; and Justerini & Brooks and Vine Trail both in the UK.