Readers should check out the dense ruby-colored 2000 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard for muscle, strength, richness, and layers of Pinot fruit. Notions of licorice, minerals, root beer, and sweet black cherry and berry fruits emerge from this backward, medium to full-bodied, powerful, firmly-structured, Pommard-styled offering. Anticipated maturity: 2003-2011. Over the last few years, Siduri has garnered a high reputation for limited production, interesting, high quality Pinot Noirs made from some of California and Oregon's finest Pinot Noir vineyards. One might quibble over the number of offerings, but they are all individualistic efforts, even though they are treated much the same (i.e., aging in Francois Freres barrels - 15% to 65% new, little racking, and bottling without fining or filtration). Pricing is realistic for wines of such caliber. Tel. (707) 578-3882; Fax (707) 578-3884