The cherry red 2004 Reserva was sourced from older vines and aged for 18 months in new French and American oak. The nose reveals aromas of pain grille, violets, mineral, leather, and blackberry. This leads to a spicy, earthy wine with a solid core of black fruit and ripe tannin. It will improve with several more years of bottle age and deliver optimum drinking from 2012 to 2019. The Protos wines are 100% Tinta del Pais (Tempranillo). Importer: RV Distributors, Jersey City, NJ; tel. (973) 841- 0216

Protos is a flagship Ribera del Duero property and its wines have been on the rise lately. This is ripe and spicy, with black fruit and then a twitch of prune and moss on the nose. It’s racy, pure, forward and stout, with a mix of red and black fruit flavors. Warm and integrated on the finish. Drink now through 2013.——M.S.(2/1/2010)—— 92